New Owner

Tips on Training and Raising Puppies: Be fair in your interactions with the puppy. Set and maintain a regular routine with the puppy (eg, mealtimes, potty times, walks, etc.) Routine provides puppies (and dogs) a sense of security. However, puppies also need stimulus to help them build confidence in new situations. Provide a crate for your puppy as a safe haven. It is a den, not a punishment. Feed 3 small meals daily; leave food down for only 20 to 30 minutes. If your new puppy isn't drinking much water, add a couple of drops of lemon juice to its water. Have a set area outside for eliminating. Encourage the puppy to eliminate right before a play session or taking the pup for a walk (the play session or walk becomes a reward). If the puppy wears a collar, it is much easier to leash-train. Don't let your puppy make mistakes – prevent them from happening. This is much more than just house breaking. For example, coat all exposed electrical cords with dish soap so the puppy looks for more palatable items to play with, like puppy toys. Don't ever let your puppy do anything that you can teach it to do for itself. Don't train – teach. When teaching or training, use a small treat to reinforce every command every time. Discourage biting as early as possible. First rule—no biting. The two best ways to discourage puppies from biting are: (1) Give a sudden, abrupt, loud, high-pitched “OUCH” or “YAWP” sound. This is what littermates would do. It must be sudden and sharp. So the puppy stops. Follow this by providing a toy. (2) Leave the room immediately. The puppy learns that if it bites, it loses your company and attention, and that is no fun at all. Let your puppies be puppies. Source: Another Piece of the Puzzle: Puppy Development, Pat Hastings and Erin Ann Rouse, www.dogfolk.com House Breaking

House Breaking 
Frequently take the puppy to the place where it is to relieve itself. Always use the command you want it to recognize. After the puppy has been sleeping, you need to take it to the place where it is to relieve itself. Approximately thirty minutes after the pup has eaten, it will need to relieve itself. After drinking or playing hard, a puppy will need to relieve itself almost immediately.

When the puppy has an accident, correct the puppy by showing it the mess. Scold the pup and take a sample of the mess to the place where you want it to relieve itself. Place the sample in the desired area, let the puppy smell it and praise the puppy.

Using this method you can teach your puppy to relieve itself where you want it to and even to relieve on command. You can teach your puppy to relieve itself on paper, litter, grass, etc.

Note: Purina has created a special litter for dogs called Second Nature and they have created a litter box specially designed for dogs. This is a very convenient way to potty train a puppy.

Typical puppy set-up.  This is a very effective method of teaching a pup to use a litter box and to sleep in his own crate. We keep young pups in the most active part of the house so they get exposed to noises, smells, activity and other dogs.

Chewing                                                                        The more toys, bones and chew things a puppy/dog has, the less they will chew on things they shouldn't. Variety in size, texture and sounds will keep them interested.

To create interest in the toys, every three days switch the toys around. For example: have a ball, a nylabone and a tug toy out for the dog on Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday. On Thursday, Friday and Saturday have a ball, a nylabone and a squeaky toy available for the dog. On Sunday, Monday and Tuesday have a nylabone, a squeaky toy and a Frisbee. Using this method, your dog's interest in its toys will always be peaked. The dog will not become bored with its things and will not be as prone to chew on your things.

Permanent Identification
We highly recommend that all dog owners register and microchip their animals. In addition to microchipping, you should enroll your dog in the AKC Companion Animal Recovery . Many dog clubs offer microchip clinics in which microchips implantation and enrollment are offered at low cost. 

Nutrition
We feed dry food, and Purina ProPlan is the brand we use.

We are currently following the advice of Pat Hastings, who has been employed by a major dog food company and is an expert on puppy nutrition. She recommends that puppies be fed adult food to assure that their bones don't outgrow their tissue and cause deformation. Here are two photos of what the bad growth looks like before and after two weeks on adult food. This type of thing can be fixed in a week if caught when the puppies are young. According to Pat, puppy food is fine for adult dogs that need to gain weight, but not for puppies, especially those younger than 4 months of age who are developing at a rapid rate.

Coat Care
Make this experience fun for your Poodle. Constantly talk soothingly to your dog with words of praise.

The easiest way to keep your Poodle in good coat condition is to brush and comb the coat regularly. You must set up a regular brushing and combing schedule. Three times a week is sufficient providing you brush correctly. Bathing your Poodle should be done at least once a month, depending on how dirty your Poodle gets. I recommend using a soft slicker brush for the body, a soft pin brush for the ears and a greyhound comb for combing through the coat and for dematting. 

Tips on brushing:

• Start brushing at the dog's hindquarters and work forward. Make sure the hair is parted to the skin and that the free hand holds down the unbrushed hair to separate it from the section being brushed. You want to part the hair and brush all the way down to the skin, using brisk strokes that lift the hair.

• Carefully pull the back leg backward and brush the hair upward, using brisk strokes that lift the hair rather than flatten it.

• Continue working forward and brush the tail, hindquarters, back, ribs and chest, parting the hair and brushing to the skin.

• Turn the dog around to stand facing you and brush the front of the chest.

• Gently pull each front leg forward as you brush the hair upward.

• Place the dog in a sitting position facing you. Brush the topknot upward and backward. Brush the ear feathering downward.

• When the dog is completely brushed, comb through the coat to be sure all tangles are removed.

Preparing the bath:

Use warm water throughout the shampoo; it's best for the coat and for your Poodle. Plug the ears with cotton before putting the dog in the tub. If you are not using a tearless shampoo, place a drop of mineral oil in each eye for protection from the soap. A rubber mat in the tub will give your dog a better grip and prevent slipping. 

Shampooing:

Stand your Poodle in the tub. Using a spray hose wet the hair thoroughly. Place your hand above the eyes to keep water and shampoo from irritating them. Speak quietly and reassuringly as you wet your Poodle. Squeeze shampoo on the back and rub till the entire Poodle is lathered. Don't be afraid to use your fingertips or a sponge; your Poodle will love it! Pay attention to stubborn spots between the front and back legs and at the hock joints and under the tail by using extra shampoo and the sponge.

Rinse the hair lightly and shampoo a second time. It takes two shampoos to get a Poodle clean. After the second shampooing, rinse the hair thoroughly until the hair squeaks when you pass your hand through it. Using warm water, start at the head and work methodically toward the tail and down the legs.

Conditioning:

Hair conditioners make the Poodle's hair more manageable and less inclined to mat after bathing. Apply the conditioner to the coat and let it soak for the desired time specified on the label. Rinse thoroughly with warm water until the hair is squeaky again.

Fluff Drying:
You'll need two towels for drying. Use one towel to squeeze the excess water from the coat. Rub the dog down really well. With the second towel, wrap it around the dog to soak up the remaining water as you place your Poodle where you intend to do the drying. Remove the cotton from the ears and use dry cotton to absorb any moisture inside.

Dry your Poodle with an electric hair dryer set on “Warm.” Keep the dog wrapped in the towel to avoid getting cold. Start by drying the head and moving toward the tail. Remember to part the hair as you go and to brush all the way to the skin. Always brush as you dry, the coat will dry faster. Dry the section you are working on until the hair is straight. Then, move to the next section of wet hair until it is straight. By brushing against the grain of the hair, the coat will be fluffier. 

Maintenance of the Poodle:

Your Poodle's ears, nails, teeth and anal glands need to be taken care of on a monthly basis. Ask your breeder, veterinarian or groomer how to best accomplish these necessities for your Poodle.

Suggestions:

Coat maintenance of a Poodle can be tedious and a hassle, there are other options you can take if you decide that you want to go another route, you can:

• Set up a schedule with your groomer to have your Poodle groomed every 4 to 6 weeks. (The grooming session will include brushing, dematting, flea treatment, nails, ears, anal glands, bathing, table drying and full grooming.)

• Set up a schedule with your groomer to have your Poodle brushed and bathed every 2 weeks. (The B & B includes brushing, dematting, nails, ears, anal glands, bathing and table drying.)

• Make an appointment to have your veterinarian or groomer clip your Poodles nails.

Miscellaneous

Crates:

• Deluxe VariKennel size 200 Medium (Khaki) measures 27 1/4"L x 21 3/4"W x 20"H

• KennelAire Black Professional Series size 30" X 20" X 23.5"

Adult Collar: Size 14”

Showing

New owners may wish to consider showing their dog in one of the following AKC areas: Conformation, Agility, Rally, Obedience, Tracking, and Field work. These are great activities for the family to bond and spend special time with their furry friends.